I read many years ago in one of the very early issues of the now defunct "Atlantic Surfer" magazine a short story spread over two issues " Legacy, the prospect of Surf Time and Space" by Neil Watson, the story was illustrated in grainy black and grey slightly floral line drawings, and I knew I wanted to write. The next issue had a story about Indonesia which I recently learnt was inspired by one of my favourite books, The Heart Of Darkness. Atlantic Surfer did not last long and I had ( I was about eleven years old at the time) spent all my pocket money on a years subscription when it went belly up, I was heart broken, but Neil Watson's Stories Alex Williams's Photography and the general enthusiasm of that magazine changed my life, I need to surf, to travel and to write, I even had some early experimentation with surf photography, I had wonderful Minolta with me in Morocco, but in those days ( pre-digital) film was prohibitively expensive.
As a post grad ( I was a Bristol) I met Alex Dick Read ( now editor of Surfer's Path) and a long haired walking stereo type of an Australian surfer from Nossa, pot smoking, itinerant, and an amazing raconteur, Danny Caine. Danny was a few years older than the rest of us and was returning to education after a few years reaching English and Surfing in Japan, and had spent time living in a cave near Margaret River, had lived and worked in Indonesia. Danny was to became something of a role model for me, though he was tragically recently killed in a plane crash, whist herding sheep in Western Australia. Inspired by these encounters both human and printed I made my way to Morocco, planed trip 1 month actual duration 5 years.
it all seems distant past, as I sit in a frozen Aberdeen writing this, paddling out a Fresh water West or Aberystwyth in the depth of Welsh winter with marigolds instead of gloves back then seemed so easy, even when the surf was just a rampage of white water without a face or peak in sight, it was a ritual.
Now I have with me a big wave board for Africa ( made by JP in Wales) which i brought back because it was the newest board I had, I left my other JP board behind and am still waiting for some one to transport it back. A fanatics quad that should be ideal for the local conditions.
Any way at long last, over 30 years after reading Neil's stories that I have finally achieved a two page spread in a UK surf Magazine WAVELENGTH, but thanks to Danny, Bez Newton and many others the story it tells is true.